Insights from a Surfer – Stuart Guilbert

Bali, known for its stunning sunsets and paradise-like temples, is also home to some of the world’s most premier surfing destinations. Tropical sun, consistent waves and a variety of breaks for each level of surfers, it’s no wonder surfers from around the world flock to the Island of the Gods. We interviewed a seasoned surfer, who started hitting the waves of Bali a few years back and have never looked back since, and share with you his tips, spots and surfing etiquettes that you may need to know before hitting those “gnarly” waves.

Wet & Dry Season: When and Where to Surf

Bali’s surf seasons are characterized by two main periods, the Dry and Wet seasons. During the Dry Season (May – September), West Coast is your best bet to find the best waves, perfect for all surfing levels, you have your Canggu and Seminyak, as your best place to surf, and during the Wet Season (October – April) head over to the east coast such as Sanur and Nusa Dua, where the surfing conditions are better during this time of year.

Best Beginner Surf Spots

New to surfing? Worry not, we got you, these are the best options for young guns like you:

1. Kuta Beach: Ideal for first-timers as the beach is forgiving with sandy shores, perfect for those who like the pain of being wiped out. Stretching from Kuta to Double six and beyond, you’ll meet with surfers from different skill levels, learn, discuss and play all you want!
2. Padma Beach: Great for surfing the high-tides, it is more relaxed but still suitable for beginners.
3. “Halfway” (in front of Beachwalk Mall): Within the sandy shores of Kuta Beach, there is a section called halfway, which is in front of the Beachwalk mall where a lot of surfers tend to go, as they have mid-tide and is located in the center of Kuta, near to the shopping centers and restaurants.

These are great options for young-blood surfers as they are sandy-bottomed and have no reef, meaning if you are wiped out, there’s no risk of injury on coral. Happy wipeout!

Surfing Schedule: When to Hit the Water

Before hitting the waves, you have to know the best time to surf during the day:

1. The Early Birds (6 AM): Known as the “six o’clockers”, they prefer the glassy morning waves and continue the day after. Nothing gets your fuel pumping like a good surf session.
2. Mid-Morning Surfers (9 – 11:30 AM): A good surf session before the Bali heat officially sets in, once they do, grab a cold one and hit it up at a local warung.
3. Late Afternoon Crew (4:30 – 6:30 PM): Ideal for sunset surfs, soft golden lights and content creators looking for the perfect lighting.

Always refer to the tide charts, even beaches separated by a few hundred meters can vary drastically depending on the tide.

Post-Surf Eats & Drinks: Local Warungs to Visit

After a good long surf session, nothing hits the spot like a cold beer with the boys (or girls) and a heartfelt meal. These are some of the favorites for surfers:

1. Froggys at Balangan: Cold Bintang and chilled vibes, what more can you ask for?
2. Norm near Kuta Reef: If you’re surfing in Kuta, make sure you visit Norm, hit up for a budget-friendly breakfast including a delicious cup of joe!
3. Geger Beach & Siligita (Nusa Dua): It’s an option for those looking for something more tranquil and less touristy, and some warungs serve beer almost as cold as ice!

Surf Communities in Bali

There’s an abundant of surf communities in Bali, however they might not be as apparent if you are a solo traveler, try out these methods:

1. Surf Schools: Great for beginners, and they are able to connect you with like-minded surfers to help you build your surfing confidence.
2. Regional surf crews: Try linking with a few online communities based on nationality, it’s a way for you to feel and surf just like at home!
3. Bar-based tribes: People who surf and hangout at bars near the beach are a great way to connect, spots such as Old Man’s or The Lawn Canggu often form surf circles.

Be mindful of surfing etiquettes, especially if you are surfing solo.

The Unwritten Rules: Surf Etiquette 101

Every new surfer must abide and learn of the unwritten rules in surfing, or as people call it the Surf Etiquette.

1. Don’t drop in: If someone is already riding and enjoying the wave, it’s not your wave, don’t outsurf or break their focus, look for other waves and enjoy them, plenty of waves out there!
2. Stay out of the way: Don’t paddle into the surf zones when you’re not ready, again, surfing takes a lot of focus, one wrong move can lead to injuries. Stay wary.
3. Understand the beach layout: Learn the difference between different zones, the waves, channels (rips) and reef breaks, know where you should and shouldn’t be (depending on your surfing confidence).
4. Never “play” in the channel: Flat spots with no waves are often the most dangerous as they have riptides that can and will drag you away. Stay in the whitewater if you’re new.

Beginner Tips: Mind Over Muscle

1. Size doesn’t matter: You’re not too big for surfing, there’s always the perfect board and wave for you!
2. Don’t give up: Progress always takes time, ride small waves on a big board until you master the fundamentals like standing up on the board. Don’t worry about small progress and always learn from your previous wipe outs!
3. Know your limits: Don’t paddle out into big surf zones too early in your surfing journey. Understand that you are learning the ropes, once you’re ready and prepared, hit them waves dude!

Final Thoughts: Surf Hard, Chill Harder

No matter how long you’re here in Bali, whether it be a week or a year, surfing in Bali is about respect, flow and collective enjoyment. Don’t rush progress and don’t be that person that ruins other people’s surfing experience by being in the wrong spot at the wrong time. Always learn, adapt and enjoy the surf culture that has been built in Bali. Enjoy the surf culture from Sunrise waves to post-surf beers with new friends! Enjoy the wave and rock on!